If you’re seeking the soul of Mallorca on a plate, look no further than Andana by Maca de Castro. This gastronomic hub inside Palma de Mallorca’s first railway station at Plaça Espanya, 6, is not just a place to eat — it’s where a culinary journey across the island begins.

Pros:

– the restaurant is located in Mallorca’s first railway station, the literal “zero kilometer” of the island. Combining both gastronomic and geographical significance in a single project is a unique luxury that not every restaurant in the world can afford;

– the talented Maca de Castro is one of the best female chefs in the country and the pride of Mallorca. She holds Michelin stars (for her restaurant El Jardín in Puerto de Alcudia, as well as a green star for outstanding eco-friendly practices in the restaurant business). Maca de Castro is a fan of the “zero kilometer” concept;

– everything cooked in the kitchen of Andana is grown as closely as possible to the restaurant, giving each of us a chance to literally “taste the soil” and experience the island from the inside through our senses;

– the 19th-century station building of Palma de Mallorca is simple and elegant, both outside and inside. It was from here that the first train departed in 1875, with its passengers traveling to Inca. I love this connection between past and future. In Andana, it’s felt in every detail of the interior and seems to flutter in the air;

– a long sofa, adorned with bright orange cushions, stretches along the wall. When you settle on it, you can’t tear your eyes away from the stream of daylight pouring in through the large windows. The understated colors of the dining room create a calm, unhurried atmosphere for lunch. Fans spin serenely under the ceiling. A section of the open kitchen is adorned with tiles the color of the sea. Wooden tabletops and Vienna chairs add to the aesthetic. The modest, functional table setting without white tablecloths highlights the building’s railway-station past;

– the menu is crafted with absolute precision, in a meticulous, feminine manner typical of the chef. There are no random dishes here. You should treat the menu as a unified composition, full of love and generosity;

– reasonable prices with generous portions. Each dish is accompanied by symbols that point out all modern-day concerns (lactose, gluten, sulfates, and major allergens). I’ve always appreciated this extra layer of comfort;

– under the menu section titled “Cuchara” (Spoon), you must try “Pa amb oli de cuchara”, literally “Bread with spoonfuls of olive oil.” It’s a cool soup with a creamy texture served with a lace-thin, crispy toast. The festive orange color. The velvety depth of various tomatoes and bread is complemented by cheese cubes for creamy notes. The incredibly delicious olive oil is felt in every spoonful. It’s impossible to stop until you’ve finished every last drop. (Though, for the record, the portion can easily be shared between two). Noble green olives and wild sea fennel on the same plate triple the pleasure, subtly stimulating the appetite with their tart, salty character;

– behind the simple name “Steak tartare” (15 euro/25 euro) hides a brilliant tartare made from rare-quality beef tenderloin. The trick is that the meat is meticulously chopped by hand and brought to a soufflé-like texture. The tartare is seasoned with sea salt crystals and freshly ground black pepper so masterfully that the quality of the meat stands out — it’s all laid bare. Then, the notes of black pepper rise in your mouth in a powerful yet careful wave. Astonishingly refined aftertaste;

– the tartare is served with slices of toasted baguette, resulting in a sophisticated sandwich, full of contentment and quiet luxury;

– “Pulpo” (20 euro) – octopus tentacle with mashed potatoes – is another example of simple comfort food, elevated by magic and high-quality oil with herbs and garlic. The contents of this dish might just keep you coming back to Andana time and time again;

– the locals of Palma are incredibly lucky — they can dine at this restaurant almost daily, systematically trying out the entire menu. With each new season, as seasonal products change, you can start eating all over again—with renewed energy, and this cycle could go on forever;

– charming, attentive, and fast service.

Cons:

– cleaning the tables nearby is accompanied by vigorous sprays of disinfectant, which, of course, is not a crime but rather the observance of hygiene standards. When you’re sitting next to it, fully engrossed in your food, the energetic cleaning brings you back to earth — that’s one. And two — you instinctively want to duck under the table to avoid the aforementioned sprays;

– the waitresses don’t handle the chairs with care, loudly clattering them back into place. Sure, in a railway station restaurant, that’s how things are supposed to be. Andana isn’t exactly a station, but rather an elegant restaurant where there are stands for ladies’ handbags. The crashing of chairs shouldn’t be part of the program here.

Text by Lana Kesoyan