For those seeking an authentic taste of Mallorca away from the tourist traps, Mercat de Pere Garau offers the perfect antidote. Tucked away a little bit away from the bustling city, this unassuming market offers a taste of authentic Mallorcan culture — starting with its unique breads. From crumbly almond-flour bagels to dense loaves made from ancient Xeixa wheat, the bread at stall No. 17, “Pa I Dolç,” is an essential part of the island’s culinary experience. Here’s why this little market stop is a must for any bread lover.

Pros:

– the “Mercat de Pere Garau” is an entirely ordinary market, and that’s its main charm, especially if you’re tired of the expensive eccentricities of the Santa Catalina district; 
 
– as you cross the main entrance, find stall No. 17 with the sign “Pa I Dolç” — this is your first priority. Leave the sausages, honey, cheese, and other temptations for later because without bread, these island delicacies won’t make sense;
 
– the bagels, made with almond flour, come in various types: glazed with whipped egg whites and called Santa Clara (€15/kg), anise-flavored (€12.5/kg), or orange-flavored (also €12.5/kg). The trick with these bagels is that they seem completely stale and almost rock-hard. In reality, it’s the opposite. They hold their shape perfectly, but once you take a bite, you’ll realize you’ve practically become the “Lord of the Rings.” The dough is crumbly and delicate. Not overly sweet. With subtle hints of anise or orange;

– for a first taste, one ring is enough. You pay just a few coins and spread out the enjoyment: from a cup of Americano to a glass of red wine;
 
– Mallorcan loaves are nothing like the trendy hipster varieties of popular bread. No salt. No air pockets under the brown crust. Round in shape and noticeably heavy (pa pages moreno, pa pages blanco). Yes, you’re right — this bread feels like the heaviest in the world;
 
– in my opinion, one loaf can feed three ravenous families, and if you’re buying this bread alone, I recommend making a list of friends and sharing it with them immediately while the bread is fresh (two to three days at most, after which you’ll have to dry it into croutons, but I don’t know how to do that yet);  
 
– the unique, bland but memorable, dense and aromatic taste of the Mallorcan loaf reminded me of my grandmother’s homemade bread. An amazing, sentimental feeling, considering my grandmother lived thousands of kilometers from the island;

– the special secret of this bread is that it’s made from XEIXA flour, milled from an ancient variety of wheat that has been cultivated on the island for thousands of years. Due to its isolation from the mainland, this variety has managed to avoid genetic modifications. Its yield is lower than that of modern wheat — that’s one thing. And two, XEIXA bread can confidently boast low gluten content in particular and low allergenicity in general;
 
– it’s precisely a slice of Mallorcan bread that should be spread with spicy sobrassada. Only then can these two island specialties make you consider canceling your return to the mainland, at least until Christmas.

Cons:

– the successful rise of ensaimada makes you think about the potential export of Mallorcan bread, but so far, there’s no sign of that happening.

By Lana Kesoyan